Firearms rust repair/refinishing/refurbishing

[irregularmedic]

As I mentioned elsewhere I've got a few firearms that I am planning on refinishing with Duracoat or something similar in the very near future. I also seem to (sadly) be the most firearms knowledgeable amongst my friends that own guns. Inevitably they pull out their heirlooms and hand me downs and home defense/zombiepocalypse tools maybe once a year and in this climate all of us battle with rust/pitting etc. They ask me for advice on how to deal with this and realistically aren't going to be responding to my advice to clean and oil them regularly and we all have some weapons have already suffered some abuse one way or another.

 

If I am pleased with the results of refinishing my weapons I will probably do at least a handful of my friends as birthday presents and house warming gifts (I'm already in the habit of buying some friends a basic rifle when they buy house and don't own one, and occasionally loan out one of mine and take in someone elses to fit a different stock for them and the like). I'm also fond of inexpensive ex-military sidearms and the odd pawn shop pistol and would like to refurbish some of these that I have acquired over the years. Again, nothing rare, things like my 1944 Star Model B will be keeping their original finish.

 

There seem to be a dizzying plethora of tomes out there on the subject so that I am at a loss as to which I should choose to educate me as a novice on how to refinsh a firearm. I'm not looking for total perfection, and none of the firearms in question is anything that would be better off keeping its original patina due to rarity or anything like that.

 

Basically I need to know how to go about polishing(?) away pitting so that when I apply Duracoat (or something similar) it is no longer an embarrassing obviously abused tool.

 

I own a dremel tool already (I assume I may end up using it in this endeavor, but had it already) and a small-ish budget in addition to what I expect I might spend on some specialized polishing brushes for it. I'm not looking to go pro or anything, just would like to rust proof and make nice looking some of my arsenal and a few friends pieces.

 

Thanks in advance for any advice anyone can provide!

Edited August 8, 2010 by irregularmedic

[Bob B]

 

 

....Basically I need to know how to go about polishing(?) away pitting so that when I apply Duracoat (or something similar) it is no longer an embarrassing obviously abused tool.

 

I own a dremel tool already (I assume I may end up using it in this endeavor, but had it already) and a small-ish budget in addition to what I expect I might spend on some specialized polishing brushes for it. I'm not looking to go pro or anything, just would like to rust proof and make nice looking some of my arsenal and a few friends pieces.

 

Thanks in advance for any advice anyone can provide!

 

Dremel tools will RUIN the looks of a firearm if you use them to polish away pitting. FWIW, I would rather have the pitting than a gun that has been ground on with a Dremel. Try cleaning the metal by bead blasting prior to refinishing, this may blend away the pitting so that it is not as noticeable. Or, take it to professional who knows how to refinish firearms.

 

Proper polishing on firearms involves knowing how to use files and other hand tools, and knowing how to keep lines sharp, edges square, and markings clear.

 

I am not trying to be a jerk, but I would hate to see you ruin your gear.

 

Good luck!

Edited August 9, 2010 by Bob B

[Doug Kibbey]

Check with these guys...they offer a number of finishes....(be sure to check the sidebar menu for alternative finishes)

 

http://www.robarguns.com/additional_finishes.htm

 

This guy does does some nice stuff too, but picky about what he works on...

 

http://grantcunningham.com/finishing.html

 

I like that banding polish around the cylinder, I might have to have one done that way for grins....

Edited August 8, 2010 by Doug Kibbey

[shep854]

"This guy does does some nice stuff too, but picky about what he works on...

 

http://grantcunningh.../finishing.html

 

I like that banding polish around the cylinder, I might have to have one done that way for grins.... "--Doug Kibbey

 

That cylinder band does look sharp!

Edited August 9, 2010 by shep854

[Doug Kibbey]

"This guy does does some nice stuff too, but picky about what he works on...

 

http://grantcunningh.../finishing.html

 

I like that banding polish around the cylinder, I might have to have one done that way for grins.... "--Doug Kibbey

 

That cylinder band does look sharp!

 

 

We may have to wait a while...or look elsewhere...

 

"Because of the high demand for quality gunsmithing, I am very backed up and maintain a waiting list - which is roughly two years long at this moment, and is currently not open to new work."

[Hittite Under The Bridge]

A good old copper penny will work wonders in getting away some pitting.

[EchoFiveMike]

I'd start by using copper or brass wool to remove the rust 1st. You can use oiled steel wool as well. If that is insufficient, you can move up to power tools but you need to be very very careful as once the material is gone, it's gone.

 

If you're going to use a coating, you just need to get the rust off, you don't need to worry about repairing the surface. I'd use the steel wool and then make sure you degrease rigorously. If you have an ultrasonic cleaner, use that with a degreasing agent. I can't stress prep work enough. There's no need to polish, a rough surface provides better adhesion anyways. I sandblast my stuff if possible.

 

If you're going to do several guns, buy a quality airbrush like a Badger along with a compressor with a dryer/filter; it'll pay off. S/F......Ken M

[shep854]

We may have to wait a while...or look elsewhere...

 

"Because of the high demand for quality gunsmithing, I am very backed up and maintain a waiting list - which is roughly two years long at this moment, and is currently not open to new work."

 

There's also that pesky money thing...

[EchoFiveMike]

Strictly speaking not entirely. You can do some impressive restoration with various thermal spraying techniques - not exactly affordable or availlable for something of this nature but it's "technically possible", and cool to watch.

 

Sure and you can weld in metal and remachine, I've done that on automotive apps, but as you point out, you're not going to dump $500 labor into a $200 gun to make it a $350gun. S/F.....Ken M

[C.G.Erickson]

What works really good is a couple days soak in a coffee can full of an Industrial Penetrant called "Kroil."

 

Using Rubber gloves, scrub the rusted section with "Scotchbrite". Leaving it immersed in the "Kroil" while scrubbing.

 

Repeat with fresh "Kroil" until desired results.

 

Cheap effective way.

 

For more stubborn pitting, dry clean with DeGreaser spray after Kroil bath and scrub. Then put in a bead Blaster and blast it.

 

Worth a shot for initial attempt.

 

C.G.