irregularmedic Posted July 16, 2010 Share Posted July 16, 2010 It'll actually be a long time before I have an chance to use an airbrush for models, I'm actually possibly in need of one for applying Duracoat to a number of firearms, but this seemed like the place to ask about peoples preferences for manufacturers/models of airbrushes. Many thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Assessor Posted July 16, 2010 Share Posted July 16, 2010 (edited) It'll actually be a long time before I have an chance to use an airbrush for models, I'm actually possibly in need of one for applying Duracoat to a number of firearms, but this seemed like the place to ask about peoples preferences for manufacturers/models of airbrushes. Many thanks in advance!If you want a good airbrush, that you can take forward to use in the future on models, go with an Iwata or a Paasche. I have an Iwata HP and it's a corking good tool, doing very fine lines, certainly plenty good enough for me. I don't and haven't owned a Paasche, but friends have and I've used theirs, and I like them. Go for a double-action internal mix if you can, as it gives the maximum control and best results. I also have one of these http://www.everythingairbrush.com/acatalog/info_AB_128_s.htmlwhich is a cheap and somewhat cheerful Iwata copy that I use for doing large areas or spraying nasty rough stuff I don't want to put through my real Iwata. At the risk of teaching my granny to suck eggs (in which case, sorry!) spend on good air drying / filtering kit to go on your compressor and either buy or make a spray booth to protect yourself! Have fun, but be aware airbrushing is addictive! Edited July 16, 2010 by Assessor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corinthian Posted July 16, 2010 Share Posted July 16, 2010 I use a Badger 175 Crescendo. Very nice, although old already and I reckon outclassed by other, better, more recent models. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShotMagnet Posted July 17, 2010 Share Posted July 17, 2010 Your brush will depend on your needs. I have and continue to get by quite well using a fairly basic single-action brush, and in fact was so enamored of the particular tool (a Badger 350) that I declared out loud that I would never buy a double-action tool. I caved, I bought a Paasche, and it is indeed a very nice implement; but there's the caveat emptor. Buy the brush you think you will need for the work you expect to do now and in the future. Be aware as well that for the balance of what you will probably want to do, a single-action brush should do you just fine. Doubles are mostly for artists and technical illustrators. Shot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Assessor Posted July 17, 2010 Share Posted July 17, 2010 (edited) Your brush will depend on your needs. I have and continue to get by quite well using a fairly basic single-action brush, and in fact was so enamored of the particular tool (a Badger 350) that I declared out loud that I would never buy a double-action tool. I caved, I bought a Paasche, and it is indeed a very nice implement; but there's the caveat emptor. Buy the brush you think you will need for the work you expect to do now and in the future. Definitely. I couldn't agree more - get something you're pretty sure has the capability to do what you might want to do, and you know it'll do what you do want to do. Be aware as well that for the balance of what you will probably want to do, a single-action brush should do you just fine. Doubles are mostly for artists and technical illustrators. YMMV, but I find the fact that you can change the width of the spray pattern without adjusting the nozzle (as a double action can) to be very useful - having had a DA, I wouldn't go back. The only thing might be if you're working with some real glop, in which case an SA external mix has the advantage of easy cleaning. Edited July 17, 2010 by Assessor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Steele Posted July 17, 2010 Share Posted July 17, 2010 Get a good quality airbrush to practice with then step up to a pricey brand name.http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/paint/deluxe-airbrush-kit-95810.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garth Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 I use a Badger 150 that I've had for almost 20 years now. I had a 350 before, had one of the first gen Aztecs for a while, but my 150 is a pretty solid performer ... assuming proper/regular and very thorough cleaning, as well as appropriate level of thinning (something that I've only really gotten the true hang of in the last 5 years or so). Make sure you get some kind of pressure regulator, inline moisture trap and paint filter. They're invaluable. --Garth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShotMagnet Posted August 1, 2010 Share Posted August 1, 2010 Garth makes an excellent point. When shopping, choose air supplies and attendant equipage at-least as carefully as you choose the brush itself. Trust me when I say that your sanity depends on it. Shot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irregularmedic Posted August 8, 2010 Author Share Posted August 8, 2010 Get a good quality airbrush to practice with then step up to a pricey brand name.http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/paint/deluxe-airbrush-kit-95810.html That's WAY less than I thought I'd have to budget for one, but I still need a compressor as well. Also, I've had good experience with Harbor Freight and they seem to have a very good rep around here. Thanks for the heads up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irregularmedic Posted August 8, 2010 Author Share Posted August 8, 2010 (edited) Garth makes an excellent point. When shopping, choose air supplies and attendant equipage at-least as carefully as you choose the brush itself. Trust me when I say that your sanity depends on it. Shot Ah, excellent advice gentlemen! I've only handled an airbrush once before, I'd probably be better off buying a quality complete system then, instead of trying to piece one together myself on the cheap.Hmmm... Oh, and before I forget, thank you everyone for your input! Edited August 8, 2010 by irregularmedic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Steele Posted August 8, 2010 Share Posted August 8, 2010 Ah, excellent advice gentlemen! I've only handled an airbrush once before, I'd probably be better off buying a quality complete system then, instead of trying to piece one together myself on the cheap.Hmmm... Oh, and before I forget, thank you everyone for your input! Again, I'd recommend Harbor Freight for that as well, take a look you might be surprised. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Assessor Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 Again, I'd recommend Harbor Freight for that as well, take a look you might be surprised. There are a great many inexpensive airbrushes out there, which are frequently copies of better, more expensive brands (Iwata seem to be the commonest "victim" over here). Some are pretty rough, some much less so, to the extent that one outfit over here who sell Iwata also flog an Iwata "clone" as an entry level tool. I own one and use it for rough, nasty work, using grotty horrible paint, especially on wargame scenery. They WILL usually work, but (big but!) they don't perform as well as the "real thing" (comparing my Iwata clone to the real thing), and the after-sales service isn't always up to a lot (even new needles and common consumables like that aren't easy to come by). Caveat emptor - you WILL get what you play for, and if you get into airbrushing, you may well find you outgrow a rough clone brush pretty quickly. Then, unless you're like me and have a use for a relatively crappy spare airbrush (and I would get not everyone has), you've spent 30-50% of the cost of the real thing for very little use or gain. The other thing of course is that if you start off with a crap airbrush that works poorly, it can put you off ever using one again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Steele Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 There are a great many inexpensive airbrushes out there, which are frequently copies of better, more expensive brands (Iwata seem to be the commonest "victim" over here). Some are pretty rough, some much less so, to the extent that one outfit over here who sell Iwata also flog an Iwata "clone" as an entry level tool. I own one and use it for rough, nasty work, using grotty horrible paint, especially on wargame scenery. They WILL usually work, but (big but!) they don't perform as well as the "real thing" (comparing my Iwata clone to the real thing), and the after-sales service isn't always up to a lot (even new needles and common consumables like that aren't easy to come by). Caveat emptor - you WILL get what you play for, and if you get into airbrushing, you may well find you outgrow a rough clone brush pretty quickly. Then, unless you're like me and have a use for a relatively crappy spare airbrush (and I would get not everyone has), you've spent 30-50% of the cost of the real thing for very little use or gain. The other thing of course is that if you start off with a crap airbrush that works poorly, it can put you off ever using one again. I have several from HF and I have no complaint on any of them. I have a six color carousel from HF that performs well. I see no reason to spend big $$$ for a compressor that is no different than what Badger sells and at ¼ the price. Modeling is expensive enough as it is. Most of HF stuff is Rebranded stuff anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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