On weathering, fixing and decals

[Brad Edmondson]

I have a project I want to try weathering with crushed pastels. Modelling hasn't been my thing in ages (like jr. high) so this is new to me.

 

For decals, what's recommended for fixing them and dulling them down to look weathered? Does a home-brew work as well as something by Testors? I'm curious as to the pastels because I've never done it before. Is there something to fix the pastels so it doesn't smear off on my hands whenever I handle the model?

[ShotMagnet]

For decals the best thing to do is to apply them on a glossy surface. If the vehicle has a flat finish, apply either a gloss coat or Future floor wax over the area(s) to be decalled. Future is an acrylic floor wax that can be applied just like paint (i.e. with a brush or airbrush). Let that dry, then before you apply your decals first lay down a decal setting solution specifically on where the individual decal will go. Apply the decal, then once in place coat it with a decal solvent. DON'T TOUCH IT!!!

 

At least until it's dried completely. The setting solution fixes the decal in place. The solvent solution melts the decal so that it conforms just about perfectly to the surface of the model. Touching a decal which has been coated with the solvent will only make you unhappy. When it's dry it should look as if it's been painted on.

 

For weathering, do as you would for the rest of the model (wash, drybrush, pin wash, etc). With regard to the pigments, I would mix them either with some of the thinner that you used for the wash and apply them with a brush, or with some matting clear-coat.

 

Feel free to PM me with questions.

 

 

Shot

[Corinthian]

Touching a decal which has been coated with the solvent will only make you unhappy.

 

Or cause insanity.

 

As for dulling the decals, after applying the clear flat over them, that should make them dull (i.e., not glossy). If what you are after is a bleached or faded result, I think painting over the decal (or the model over all) a lighter shade of the base coat (if model) or decal color (if only the decal) will create that result. Haven't tried that, though, and I suck at the painting/weathering stage really.

[Brad Edmondson]

So mixing with the thinner or clear coating afterwards will prevent smudging. Good to know.

 

I'll do a few trials on some test pieces and see what gives me the most durability and photographs best.

[EW]

A good tool for applying pastels are those soft brushes women use for eye shadowing etc. Can be found at every beauty shop and are rather inexpensive. As for decaling and using different solvents my best advice is to wait long enough for the clear coat to harden. I wait atleast a week for the Tamiya Clear to cure, since the Micro Set and Sol can damage the top coatings. Another "tool" tips when it comes to decaling is to obtain an acupuncture needle. I use those for "punching" the decal at a tricky spot/curvature before applying the Micro Sol. The advantage with the acupuncture needle compared to an ordinary sewing needle is that you can't see the holes it make, but they're "big" enough to do the trick.

 

Cheers

EW

Edited July 31, 2008 by EW

[Corinthian]

Where can you get them acupuncture needles, EW? BTW, good to see you again.

 

I use an ordinary sewing needle, even just my knife, to do the puncturing.

 

Brad, another gloss clear coat would be Future acrylic floor wax. Coat the model with that, wait for an hour to fully cure, and it'll be ok to accept the decal solvent (from what I heard). Spray another coat of Future over the decals and the decals are protected. Apply a clear flat coat and you get a dull/flat result for your military vehicle.

 

As for pastels and then clear coating over it, AFAIK the problem is that the force of the spray from the airbrush might blow away the pastel dust you applied. Hence, applying pastels are usually done after clear coating the model. By this time, the model is mounted on some sort of base so that the base is handled, not the model, when the pastels are being applied. I've heard that applying a clear coat over the pastels will also change the appearance, i.e. one will think the pastel application is perfect, but after applying the clear coat, the result will look different.

[ShotMagnet]

Tomas,

 

Take an ordinary sewing needle and file the tip to the sharpness you desire. For myself, I've never gone wrong with a good old-fashioned #11 X-acto blade, honed a bit on a whetstone. Not that neatness is strictly necessary; you're going to apply-reapply solvent as necessary over the bit of decal which chose not to bow to your will when the bubbled and the result should look seamless regardless (within bounds) of how sharp the needle or blade is.

 

 

Shot

[ShotMagnet]

So mixing with the thinner or clear coating afterwards will prevent smudging.

Mixing with thinner or clear-coating (both of which should be applied concurrently with the pigments) will prevent the effect you've been trying for by application of pigment from disappearing, once the clear coat has been applied.

 

 

Shot

[EW]

I get those needles at the physiotherapist (sp?) Thomas. This needle is also good for careful cleaning of clogged upp AB nozzles. And thanks for the greeting

 

Cheers

EW

Edited August 1, 2008 by EW

[Garth]

Here's the pattern I follow for dull/flat-coated surfaces ...

 

Paint coat(s)

 

Future coat(s) - usually at least three, misted on in increasing "wetness" to build up gloss (note: for good decal application the future doesn't have to be glass smooth)

 

Decals

 

Solvent (I prefer Solvaset, although some have said that it's too hot and will melt decals apart, I haven't had issues with it yet)

 

Future coat(s) - usually another two or three. This creates a consistant coating over the decal and helps reduce the visibility of the decal edge.

 

Flat coat - I used to use Polly Scale acrylic but started having significant issues with frosting. I've switched to Testors flat lacquor, which I dilute using a 50-50 lacquer thinner/lacquer mix. Note, to keep from messing up your lungs, you NEED to wear a resperator for doing this sort of thing. I use one for all airbrushing, regardless.

 

More later on weathering ...

 

--Garth

[Corinthian]

I get those needles at the physiotherapist (sp?) Thomas. This needle is also good for careful cleaning of clogged upp AB nozzles. And thanks for the greeting

 

Cheers

EW

 

Hmmm.... interesting. How much do they cost? And how hard are those needles? The closest I've come to such needles are the needles used to stitch spines. Got some from a doctor, very sharp and very hard (ruined my wire cutter). They're perfect for tank antennas but one must be careful lest get pierced by it. Them spine needles are very expensive and the ones he gives/sells are left overs from surgeries he performs. No, they don't have any blood residue left on it ( ) as he ensures that they are sterilized before he gives/sells them.

 

Shot: thanks for the tip. I've used needles as well, but didn't think of filing them to make a sharper/smaller point.

 

Garth: The moment I used Testor's Lacquer Dullcote, I fell in love with it. I used to use them flat coats from spray cans. Tamiya, Gunze, Testors - they eventually turned my model white after using them. I thought it was the weather, hence dull coat applications must be done in perfect weather conditions. And that failed too. But with the Lacquer Dullcote for airbrush, I haven't got a single bad dull coat, even if I've used it heavily. Ditto on the respirator, too. I sometimes get lazy and don't use one (yeah, stupid) when airbrushing paint, but when it comes to the dullcote, I use one. I once used it without respiratory protection, and the fumes felt really heavy.

[EW]

Thomas, they look like below and I get them for free.

 

 

On a slightly different subject I would like too advice on some caution regarding the Tamiya clear. It has a tendency to frost when the lacquer bounces from one surface onto another. Like when your spraying the wing-area closest the fuselag of the F-4 Phantom. As I understand it, the lacguer dries mid-air and then sticks to the non intended surface. This can be remedied by either light polishing with a brush and/or high grade sand paper.

 

Cheers

EW

[ShotMagnet]

I would like too advice on some caution regarding the Tamiya clear.

It needn't be Tamiya clear, and it needn't be applied with an airbrush.

 

I personally distrust using an AB with regard to clogging when applying a pigment, no matter the colloid. I'd go with a brush, I'd apply it with a drop of flat white mixed in, and at all hazards I'd test it on something both representative and non-fatal to the finish (like a bit of scrap plasticard, maybe).

 

Shot

[DougRichards]

In terms of needles, I keep a number of various bore hypodermic syringes, unused of course. They can be easily bought from many pharmacies here. I also use the barrel / plunger assemblies for measuring paint when mixing. These can be bought either with or without the 'needles'. The plastic filling at the end of the needle makes a good handle.

 

I hahe heard of people using them as replacement gun barrels in 1/72 aircraft, suitably cut with a dremmel, and can imagine similar uses when a very fine pipe is required in 1/35 or 1/48.

 

As people with diabetes often buy these for self administration of insulin there should be few problems re anyone thinking that you are buying them for street curner use, but it is also good if you get to know your local pharmacist.

 

Any, here we have a strong 'harm minimisation' culture when it comes it injectable drugs, the authorities would prefer, if they cannot stop someone from obtaining and using, at least not having needle sharing take place.

 

For glossing prior to marking, then flattening the gloss, I have been using Xytracolour Xtracrylix water based acrylic varishes. Inexpensive and readily brushed or sprayed on. I get mine from a local WWW supplier (http://www.sandlehobbies.com/) , but can be bought direct from Hannants. I find Testors Dullcoate isn't dull enough when sprayed, and even after the base colour has dried hard it can smudge the paint when brushed on.