On masking

[Gennady I. Beregovoy]

I have yet to master the 'art' of masking. I hear Tamiya tape is good. But it still leaves adhesive on the surface. Basically my problem is how do you remove the gooey stain left by tape when masking? I heard you should apply the tape first on a clean piece of glass then on the model (presumably to remove the stickiness). What materials could be used to remove the sticky issue, and what other masking methods do you guys use? Thanks!

[Manic Moran]

Actually, I've abandoned masking tape entirely and gone over to common or garden (or office) clear scotch tape. It's very thin, and as long as you strip it off as soon as you've finished spraying (Watch for the wet paint!), doesn't seem to leave a residue.

 

NTM

[Armored Marine]

A very long time ago, I learned from an auto body man that if you use masking tape, you should run your finger on the sticky side to weaken the stickyness. After using masking tape, put it in a sandwich bag to preserve it so that it won't get old and become hard to peel.

 

Of course for models, I hate using masking tape. Seems that model paint always gets under the mask and looks thick, leaving a ridge. (Automotive paint is thicker and will not have a ridge or get under the tape.

 

My solution is I don't use masking tape. I like using latex. (like the type used to make molds.) I apply it onto the model, on the area I wish not to be painted, and if I need a straight edge, I simply scribe an edge into the dried latex with a hobbie knife, and peel away the excess. Paint will never get underneath and there are no ridges left, and the latex peels cleanly away.

Ed

[Guest Luke Yaxley]

I don't bother with tape anymore, I just use some card 9I buy it from the news agents in 2x1.5 meter sheets, then I cut it in the shape of the camo I want.

 

Mind you, I haven't built armour models in ages, so i'm not sure how well this technique will work for tanks.

 

best bet is to just get a really fine air brush tip.

[Brad Sallows]

I second the scotch tape. Holds out the paint, no seepage underneath, no ridges.

[nfafan]

Originally posted by Gennady I. Beregovoy:

I have yet to master the 'art' of masking.  I hear Tamiya tape is good.  But it still leaves adhesive on the surface.  Basically my problem is how do you remove the gooey stain left by tape when masking?  I heard you should apply the tape first on a clean piece of glass then on the model (presumably to remove the stickiness).  <snip>

 

I have used Elmers White Glue to mask canopy glass so as to paint the frames, tape was too much a PITA.

You could also use rubber cement for a hard edge camo mask, but make sure ypur base coats are real dry so as not to lift off the paint.

For soft-edge camo - and use of rattle-cans instead of airbrush -try cotten balls "stretched" a bit over the surface.

[Gennady I. Beregovoy]

Originally posted by nfafan:

I have used Elmers White Glue to mask canopy glass so as to paint the frames, tape was too much a PITA

 

Yeah I too discovered that before. Now it is my primary masking material for canopies. But, say, on wide surfaces (e.g. wings, fins, etc.), I still use tape . Am experimenting on using stiff paper made 'taut' on the surface to produce straight masks.